Repair of the secondary shaft of the gearbox (Kalina 1118)

The secondary shaft parts are shown in the figure 5.5.

To repair the secondary shaft of the gearbox on a car, you will need: two large flat-bladed screwdrivers, a hammer, a soft metal punch, and a set of flat feeler gauges.

1. Remove the secondary shaft from the gearbox (see "Disassembly and assembly of the gearbox and defect detection of its parts").



2. Clamp the secondary shaft of the gearbox with a little force in a vice with soft metal jaw pads.

Note: The secondary shaft of the gearbox must be clamped in a vice with soft pads on the jaws by the inner ring of the front bearing. Tighten the vice so that the secondary shaft can be tilted by hand to avoid damaging the bearing race surface.

3. Remove the retaining ring from the front end of the secondary shaft, located under the inner race of the front bearing.





4. Using two screwdrivers, press the front bearing inner race off the secondary shaft. The flange of the ring is directed towards the drive gear of the main transmission.



5. After releasing the vice, support the 1st gear on two supports. Using a hammer blow through a wooden block, press the 1st gear pinion off the shaft from the main gear pinion.



6. Remove the main gear drive pinion from the shaft. Note that the chamfer on the inner diameter of the gear is directed towards the 1st gear gear.





7. Remove the 1st gear pinion from the secondary shaft. The cone on the pinion is directed towards the synchronizer.



8. Mark the locking ring 1 relative to the synchronizer sleeve 2. During operation, the teeth of the ring become accustomed to the teeth of the coupling, therefore, during assembly, the ring must be installed in the same position. Remove the 1st gear synchronizer locking ring.



9. Clamp the gearbox secondary shaft in a vice again and remove the synchronizer hub retaining ring.





10. Applying force to the 2nd gear pinion, use two large screwdrivers to press the 1st-2nd gear synchronizer off the shaft splines.



11. Remove the synchronizer with the locking ring (pos. 1) of the 2nd gear and mark ring 1 relative to the synchronizer clutch 2.



12. Remove the 2nd gear from the secondary shaft. Note that the cone on the gear is facing the synchronizer.





13. Turn the secondary shaft over and use two large screwdrivers to press the rear bearing off the secondary shaft. The open side of the bearing should face the 4th gear pinion.



14. Remove the thrust washer.



15. Remove the 4th gear pinion. Note that the cone on the pinion is directed towards the synchronizer.





16. Mark the locking ring 1 relative to the synchronizer sleeve 2. Remove the IV gear synchronizer locking ring.



17. Remove the synchronizer hub retaining ring.



18. Having released the vice, support the third gear pinion on two supports and using hammer blows through a soft pad, press the III-IV gear synchronizer off the secondary shaft splines.



19. Remove the synchronizer with the 3rd gear locking ring and mark ring 1 relative to the synchronizer clutch 2. Please note that the groove on the coupling is directed towards the third gear pinion.



20. Remove the 3rd gear pinion. Note that the cone on the pinion is directed towards the synchronizer.

21. Thoroughly clean, rinse and dry the secondary shaft parts.

22. Check the condition of the secondary shaft. If there is pitting (cavities) on the bearing journals or signs of wear, the secondary shaft of the gearbox must be replaced.

23. Check the condition of the gears. If there are chips or chipping of teeth, scoring in internal holes or signs of wear on the working surfaces of the teeth, replace the gears. If there is significant crushing or chipping on the ends of the spline teeth, the gears must also be replaced.

24. Check the ease of rotation of the bearing. If the raceways or balls are damaged, or if play is detected in the bearing (for reference: the radial clearance in the bearing should not exceed 0.04 mm) replace the bearing.

25. Check the condition of the synchronizer locking rings. If there are nicks and chips on the gear rims or significant wear on the cones, replace the blocking rings.



26. Check the clearance between the gears and the corresponding locking rings. To do this, tightly install the locking ring on the cone of the corresponding gear, that is, after turning it several times, "grind" it to the cone, and measure the gap with a flat feeler gauge. The minimum allowable gap is 0.6 mm. If it is less, the locking ring must be replaced.

Note: When replacing the locking ring, also check the clearance between the new ring and the gear. To do this, put the ring on the gear cone and rock it - play is unacceptable.

27. If you find scoring or deformation on the thrust rings, or if they have lost their elasticity, replace the retaining rings.



28. Before assembly, clean the secondary shaft oil passages.



29. Assemble the secondary shaft of the gearbox in the reverse order of removal. Install the old blocking rings in accordance with the previously made marks. Install the new locking rings so that the small projections on the ring (missing teeth) coincided with the grooves of the synchronizer hub where the locks are installed.

30. Press in the secondary shaft rear bearing using a suitable drift, applying force to the inner bearing race only.



31. Before installing the front bearing inner race, first install the retaining ring and only then press the bearing inner race using a suitable mandrel until it rests against the retaining ring.



32. After assembling the secondary shaft, check the operation of the synchronizers. To do this, manually move the synchronizer clutches to the position of engaging the corresponding gears.