Car repair AvtoVAZ Car repair Renault Car repair Hyundai Car repair Ford Car repair Volkswagen Car repair Audi Car repair Chevrolet
English Русский
Български
Беларускі
Український
Српски
Hrvatski
Română
Polski
Slovenský
Magyar
articles sitemap contacts bookmark
LadaMan.ru
 
 
 
 
 
 
Kalina Granta Priora Vesta Largus XRAY
Priora 1 (2007-2018, VAZ-2170)

Useful tips for engine repair (Priora 2170)

  • Main
  • Priora
  • Priora 1
  • Power unit
  • Engine repair
  • Useful tips for engine repair
0
With a certain amount of skill and attention, many engine and system faults can be determined quite accurately by the color of the smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe. Blue smoke indicates that oil is getting into the combustion chambers, and constant smoking is a sign of severe wear of the cylinder-piston group parts. The appearance of smoke when revving the engine, after prolonged cranking with the starter, after prolonged idling or immediately after engine braking usually indicates wear of the valve stem seals. Black smoke is a sign of a too rich mixture due to a faulty engine management system or injectors. Blue or thick white smoke with moisture admixture (especially after the engine overheats) means that coolant has entered the combustion chamber through a damaged cylinder head gasket. If this gasket is severely damaged, the liquid sometimes penetrates into the oil pan, the oil level rises sharply, and the oil itself turns into a cloudy whitish emulsion. White smoke (steam) from an unheated engine in damp or cold weather is normal.

It is quite common to see a car standing in the middle of a city traffic jam with its hood open, emitting clouds of steam. Overheating. It is better, of course, not to allow this, looking at the temperature indicator more often. But no one is immune from the fact that the thermostat or electric fan may suddenly fail, or the coolant may simply start leaking. If you miss the moment of overheating, do not panic and do not make the situation worse. Overheating is not as scary as its possible consequences. Never turn off the engine immediately - it will suffer thermal shock and, once it cools down, it may refuse to start at all. When you stop, let it idle to keep the fluid circulating in the system. Turn on the heater to maximum power and open the hood. If possible, water the radiator with cold water. Only after the temperature has dropped, stop the engine. But never open the expansion tank cap right away: on an overheated engine, a geyser from under the open cap is guaranteed. Take your time, let everything cool down, this way you will preserve the health of the machine and your own health.

Almost all car manuals recommend that you always depress the clutch when starting the engine. This recommendation is justified only in the case of starting in severe frost, so as not to waste battery energy on turning the shafts and gears of the gearbox in thickened oil. In other cases, this is simply a recommendation to prevent the car from moving if a gear is inadvertently engaged. This technique is harmful to the engine, since through the depressed clutch a significant force is transmitted to the crankshaft thrust bearing, and when starting (especially cold) lubrication does not reach it for a long time. The bearing wears out quickly, the crankshaft gets axial play, and starting off is accompanied by strong vibration. In order not to damage the engine, get into the habit of checking the position of the gearshift lever before starting and starting the engine with the parking brake applied, without squeezing the clutch unless absolutely necessary.


This article is available at russian, bulgarian, belarusian, ukrainian, serbian, croatian, romanian, polish, slovak, hungarian
This article has been reviewed: Vladislav Voloshin
Share with friends:
◀ Previous
Lada Priora 1: Engine repair
Next ▶

Possible engine malfunctions
Design features of the VAZ-21126 engine
Checking the compression in the cylinders
Removal and installation the decorative engine cover
Removal and installation the engine mudguard
Setting the piston of the first cylinder to the TDC position
Replacing the timing belt and tension roller
More articles with information from manuals for Lada:

• Disassembly and repair of the engine Lada Kalina Sedan (2004-2013, VAZ-1118)
• Safety precautions for maintenance and repair of the engine… Lada Granta 1 (2011-2023, VAZ-2190)
• Safety precautions for maintenance and repair of the engine… Lada Vesta 1 (2015-2023, VAZ-2180)
• Starting the engine Lada Largus 1 (2012-2023)
• Troubleshooting Engine Troubleshooting Lada X-Ray 1 (2015-2022)
Link to this article in various formats
Reviews and comments of visitors
No comments yet


Add up two numbers: 49 + 39

       



Priora 1 (2007-2018) 
  • General information
  • Vehicle device
  • User manual
  • Faults en route
  • Maintenance
  • Power unit
  • Engine repair
  • Cooling and lubrication system
  • Supply system
  • Exhaust system
  • Transmission
  • Clutch
  • Car gearbox
  • Drive shafts
  • Chassis (running gear)
  • Car suspension
  • Steering
  • Brake system
  • Body and interior
  • Exterior (external elements)
  • Interior (internal elements)
  • Doors, locks and windows
  • Electrical equipment
  • Equipment and devices
  • Power devices
  • Lighting and signaling
  • Cooling and heating
  • Electrical circuits
LadaMan.ru © 2018–2026 | Mobile version | About Lada | Sitemap: EN BG BY UA RS HR RO PL SK HU | Contacts with admin | | Add to bookmarks
Kalina Hatchback (2004-2013) | Kalina Sedan (2004-2013) | Granta 1 (2011-2023) | Priora 1 (2007-2018) | Vesta 1 (2015-2023) | Largus 1 (2012-2023) | X-Ray 1 (2015-2022) |