If you experience play or noise while driving while rocking a suspended wheel, the hub bearing may be faulty.
Note: If there is increased play in the wheel, loosen the hub nut and check its tightening torque. If the torque is less than required, try tightening the nut to the required torque and lock it. If there is no play, the bearing will be able to work for some time.
To press in the hub bearing, use the appropriate size mandrels from the kit.
Note: If you don't have mandrels, you can use the rings from an old bearing.
You will need: a thin chisel, a socket wrench (head) "for 30", pliers for removing retaining rings, a puller for pressing out the bearing, a universal puller.
1. Remove the protective cap and loosen the hub nut (see "Replacing the front suspension hub bearing").
2. Loosen the wheel mounting bolts and hub nuts.
3. Engage 1st gear and place chocks under the front wheels. Raise and secure the rear of the vehicle on supports.
4. Remove the relevant wheel, brake drum and brake shoes (see section. "Brake system").
5. Completely unscrew the hub nut and remove the thrust washer.
6. Install the puller and press the hub off the axle.
7. Clamp the hub in a vice and remove the retaining ring from it.
8. Using a puller, press the bearing out of the hub, clean the inside of the hub, press in a new bearing and install the retaining ring.
9. Press the hub onto the axle using a suitable mandrel, applying force to the inner bearing race. Then install the pads, brake drum and wheel.
10. Finally tighten the hub nut and wheel bolts with the vehicle on the ground (replace the hub nut with a new one or a nut from another wheel so that the old, crushed parts of the nut flange do not fall into the groove on the outer CV joint tailpiece when punching).
11. After final tightening, lock the hub nut and install the protective cap.