If, when the wheel is suspended, there is play or noise during movement, the hub bearing may have failed.
Note. With increased play in the wheel, unlock the hub nut and check the torque of its tightening. If the torque is less than required, try to tighten the nut to the required torque and lock it. In the absence of play, the bearing will be able to work for some more time.
To press the wheel bearing, use the appropriate size mandrels from the kit.
Note. In the absence of mandrels, you can use the rings of the old bearing.
You will need: thin chisel, socket wrench (head) «at 30», snap ring pliers, bearing puller, universal puller.
1. Remove the protective cap and unlock the hub nut (see «Front suspension hub bearing replacement»).
2. Loosen the wheel bolts and hub nuts.
3. Engage 1st gear and chock the front wheels. Raise and secure the rear of the vehicle.
4. Remove the relevant wheel, brake drum and brake pads (see sect. «Brake system»).
5. Unscrew the hub nut completely and remove the thrust washer.
6. Install the puller and press the hub off the axle.
7. Clamp a nave in a vise and take out from it a lock ring.
8. Using a puller, press the bearing out of the hub, clean the inner cavity of the hub, press in a new bearing and install the circlip.
9. Press the hub onto the axle using a suitable mandrel, applying force to the bearing inner race. Then install the shoes, brake drum and wheel.
10. Completely tighten the hub nut, as well as the wheel bolts, with the vehicle on the ground (replace the hub nut with a new one or with a nut from another wheel so that the old jammed parts of the nut shoulder do not fall into the groove on the outer CV joint shank when punching).
11. After final tightening, lock the hub nut and install the protective cap.