Checking the oil level
It is essential to check the engine oil level at least before every long trip to avoid damaging the engine.
Check the oil level with a cold engine. It takes time for the oil to drain completely into the sump - only then can the level be accurately assessed. The machine must be on a level surface. The verification algorithm is simple: pull out the probe (1) , wipe with a clean cloth, insert into place and quickly remove.
1 - oil dipstick and its location on different modifications of the Lada Largus engine, 2 - filler neck
Normal oil level - between the MAX marks (A) and MIN (B) . If it drops below, expect trouble: the oil pump will begin to swallow air, especially when cornering and accelerating. The oil pressure will periodically decrease, many parts will work without lubrication and, accordingly, wear out faster. Moreover, when the oil level is insufficient, its temperature rises, since less liquid has to cope with the task of cooling the engine. Because of this, the oil loses its properties much faster.
Under no circumstances should the maximum filling level A be exceeded: this could damage the engine and the catalytic converter.
For topping up, they usually use the same engine oil that was poured into the car during maintenance. But you can add another oil, the quality group of which is not worse than that of the required one. No modern oil will destroy your engine on the go. Another thing is if you had to add something dubious on the road - in this case, change the entire oil as soon as possible. When adding oil, do not confuse the filler neck of the engine and, for example, gearboxes - such cases are known. In order not to pour half a canister past, use a funnel (it can be bought at the parts store or made from the neck of a plastic bottle). The car Lada Largus is between risks (labels) MAX and MIN on the dipstick «fits» from 1.5 to 2 liters of oil, depending on the engine model. When adding oil, do not rush: you need to let it drain into the pan. Therefore, before measuring the level, take a short pause. Overfilling oil is not as dangerous as underfilling, but it is best to avoid it.
How often to change the oil
The oil must be changed every 15,000 km. mileage
How much oil to fill when changing
The average volume of oil filled during an oil change, including the oil filter, depends on the engine model:
- K7M engine: 3.3 liters
- K4M engine (1.6 16V): 4.8 liters
- engines VAZ-11189, 21129: 4.1 liters
What kind of oil to fill
Engine oils with API quality class: SL; SM and SAE viscosity level: 5W30; 5W40; 5W50; 0W30; 0W40
Oil and filter change
Replacement is shown on the example of a 1.6 engine (16V). Work is carried out on a warm, idle engine.
Remove the engine protection. For this:
Bottom of car tool head «on 10» unscrew the six bolts securing the protection of the power unit and remove the protection.
Open the hood and unscrew the oil filler cap.
From below, clean the oil pan around the drain plug from dirt.
With a square key «for 8» loosen the drain plug..
Substitute a container with a volume of at least 5 liters, and having completely unscrewed the plug, drain the old oil.
Please note that a sealing rubber washer is installed under the cork. If it is severely damaged, replace it. If the same washer is not available, then install a regular copper (hole diameter 18 mm).
Wait for all the leftovers to drain (about 10 minutes). Put the plug back in place and tighten it.
Unscrew the oil filter by turning it counterclockwise.
Wipe the seat with a rag from dirt and oil drips. Apply a thin layer of oil to the rubber seal of the new filter and screw it into place by hand. Do not use any tools to tighten.
Pour new oil through the neck (the amount of oil depends on the engine - see above).
Start the engine, make sure that the emergency oil pressure indicator is off, let it run for 1-2 minutes and shut it off.
Make sure that there is no oil leakage from under the drain plug and from under the oil filter. Check the level and top it up if necessary.
Advice. Often, many car owners replace the drain bolt in the engine pan with a bolt with a magnetic tip, because not all iron particles are caught by the oil filter. I offer to help him in this difficult matter. Outside, magnets should be installed on the filter housing, neodymium is better - they are relatively inexpensive. You can get them for free if you take apart an old computer hard drive: it contains two powerful magnets. For those who doubt the effectiveness of this refinement, I advise you to cut the oil filter after the next oil change and look inside.
About change intervals and oil quality
Regular oil changes in the engine are the key to its long-term health. However, any maintenance schedules are compiled for average operating modes, and in real life the engine does not always work in comfortable conditions - take, for example, traffic congestion. Therefore, most automakers recommend halving the oil change interval for heavy-duty operation. They are echoed by oil manufacturers, based on their own research experience. Finally, this opinion is supported by the results of examinations that our journal has been conducting for many years.
Severe conditions include long-term operation of the car at low temperatures, which is associated with frequent cold starts and prolonged engine warm-ups. Or, conversely, in hot weather, when there is an increased thermal load on the lubricant. This also includes
maximum power and load conditions, such as driving at high speed or towing a trailer. But, perhaps, the most destructive regime for oil is traffic jams. This movement at low speed and prolonged idling.
Premature aging of the human body is called Werner's syndrome. The same thing happens with engine oil under severe operating conditions. Aged oil cannot work at full strength, and therefore, the engine life is reduced.
When testing motor oils, a lot of parameters are taken into account, by which the rate of its aging is judged. The main rejection characteristics are an excessive change in kinematic viscosity, as well as acid and base numbers. Among the additional parameters are the content of wear products in the oil, the change in flash point, high and low temperature deposits in the engine. Let's analyze what happens to all these values, for example, in conditions of frequent traffic jams.
Kinematic viscosity is the most important parameter that determines the performance of the oil. The quality of lubrication of friction units, wear rate, friction losses, and also, indirectly, the consumption of waste and overheating of engine parts depend on it. Under normal operating conditions, the viscosity changes according to the classical scenario: first it drops a little, and then increases, remaining within relatively safe limits for a long time. But with a long idle and frequent cold starts, it quickly goes beyond the permissible values. First, the viscosity drops significantly, and then rises sharply, which clearly indicates premature aging of the oil.
The tendency of oil to form low-temperature deposits is determined by the change in the mass of control weight elements - engine parts installed in the valve cover (oil separator mesh) and in the oil pan (oil filter mount).
The drop in viscosity at the first stage is associated with an increase in the passage of exhaust gases into the crankcase (the inevitable effect of idling), and with them - unburned fuel mixed with oil. This leads to a decrease in the bearing capacity of the oil film and lubricity, which is especially dangerous for plain bearings (liners). In addition, the fuel that has entered the oil significantly reduces the flash point of the oil and increases its volatility. When the engine reaches operating temperature, the fuel begins to evaporate, and with it the oil - its waste increases.
Long-term interaction of oil with excess crankcase gases causes its accelerated oxidation (increase in acid number) and a sharp increase in viscosity, which is why the waste again grows. As a result, a vicious circle is closed: the less oil remains in the sump, the faster it ages. At the same time, it becomes thicker, which means that the thickness of the layer left by the rings in the cylinder increases, and the waste increases even more actively.
Some time after a significant decrease in base number (characterizes the detergency of the oil) begins a rapid increase in acid, which is accompanied by an increase in the viscosity of the oil. Together with the action of detergent additives, this leads to an increase in the volume of deposits in the engine. Lacquer high-temperature growths are the most dangerous. They form on the side surfaces of the pistons, coking the rims, as well as on the valve guides. Low temperature deposits (similarity to tar) settle in the oil pan, on the walls of the engine crankcase and in the area of the camshafts. They also accumulate in the oil channels and can even clog them, leading to oil starvation.
Aged oil has extremely low protective properties, and the wear of engine parts increases dramatically. And another vicious circle is formed: wear products accumulate in the oil (abrasive particles), which further reduce the life of motor components. In addition, there is an increase in exhaust emissions and increased fuel consumption.
Numerous studies show that modern synthetic oils are able to withstand a service interval of 15,000 km in the urban cycle. However, no one hides the fact that the oil ages significantly. Therefore, experts agree that in the conditions of a metropolis, in order to extend the life of the engine, the oil change interval must be reduced.
Distance and products
The recommendation to change the oil one and a half to two times more often raises a lot of questions.
Estimating the severity of the operating conditions of a particular car with an engine of a certain model is an individual thing. However, there are a couple of practical tips.
Common sign «cork» operation - the average speed is less than 30 km / h. When it is reached, the ideal oil change interval is 7500 km. There are other approaches as well. For example, Castrol specialists recommend a proportional reduction in the interval: at an average speed of 30 km / h - 15,000 km; at 25 km/h -12500 km and so on. This is a good calculator for owners of post-warranty cars. And for warranty cars and very responsible owners, it is easier to reduce the interval to 7500 km.
You can also experiment with oil viscosity if the automaker offers a fork.
For example, consider the specification of the Volkswagen VW 50200 concern. The specified requirements cover viscosity grades SAE 0W-30; 0W-40; 5W-30; 5W-40.
The protective characteristics of the oil are determined by the change in the mass of control parts (crankshaft bearings and piston rings), changing the size of parts, the content of wear products in a sample of engine oil taken after testing.
The tendency of an oil to form high-temperature deposits is determined by a visual assessment of the level of contamination on the side surfaces of the pistons.
In this case «thirty» should be considered as a starting point. It is on oils with the lowest permissible high-temperature viscosity class that the performance characteristics of the engine are removed and worked out.
According to Castrol, switching to more viscous products (0W-40 and 5W-40) lead to a slight increase in fuel consumption (within 1-2%), and hence to reduce the efficiency of the motor. However, in some conditions, such a transition is more than justified. The use of a thicker oil may somewhat reduce the amount of oil carried into the combustion chamber. According to research experience, when switching from 5W-30 viscosity oils to 0W-40 oils, the reduction in fluid consumption for waste can reach 40-50 mg / 1000 km for an engine with an average design consumption of 70-80 mg / 1000 km for the family.
If the motor is constantly operated at maximum load, then due to the increased temperature of the oil, its viscosity decreases, which can lead to increased wear of parts. Application «forties» will allow you to stay within the lower limit of high-temperature viscosity set by the manufacturer and protect the health of the engine.
Thicker oils are also preferred for frequent short trips, which cause a lot of unburned fuel to bleed into the crankcase, resulting in oil thinning.
The universal choice in our example (for Volkswagen specification) Oil will be 0W-40. In addition to the important advantages of more viscous products described above, the motor starts up more confidently in frost with it. In addition, for the manufacture «null» (0W-30,0W-40) as a rule, base oils of higher quality groups are used than for «fives» (5W-30, 5W-40), and this helps to increase their thermal and antioxidant stability and the overall resource as a whole.