| Malfunction | Possible reason | Method of elimination |
| 1 | 2 | 3 |
| Hard brake pedal | Brake pads or linings are not installed correctly | Check and replace pads if necessary |
| Pedal stuck on axle | Repair or replace axle and bushings | |
| Clogged or flattened brake lines | Check the tubes, repair the fault or replace the tubes | |
| The pistons of the working brake cylinders (calipers) are jammed | Check, repair or replace pistons or cylinders (calipers) |
Note: The brake booster can be tested as follows. With the engine off, press the brake pedal several times to remove vacuum from the booster. Press the brake pedal all the way down and, holding it, start the engine. If the booster is working properly, the brake pedal will feel noticeably lower and require less pressure to press. If the pedal does not sink when the engine is running, then the booster is most likely not working.
| 1 | 2 | 3 |
| Brake sticking | The brake master cylinder is clogged | Check and flush the master cylinder and compensator reservoir with clean brake fluid |
| Corrosion of pistons or working surfaces of brake cylinders (calipers) | Check, repair or replace pistons/cylinders | |
| The handbrake mechanism is jammed | Find and fix the problem | |
| The brake shoe return springs are broken or stretched | Replace faulty springs | |
| Handbrake cables stuck in guides | Replace the cables |
Caution: To check, raise the vehicle and place stands under the chassis.
Rotate the wheels one by one to determine which wheel has a sticking brake. Press and release the brake pedal. The wheels must rotate freely. The reason for two wheels jamming at the same time is damage to the brake line tubes from the main brake cylinder. Open the bleed screw on the faulty brake assembly to check if this is the cause.
Internal pressure build-up or mechanical failure. A rusty handbrake cable is also the cause of both rear wheels seizing. To confirm this cause, disconnect the handbrake cable from the equalizer bar and check if the wheels now turn.
| The brake pedal is "soft" | The rear brake pads are not adjusted correctly | Check and adjust the rear brake mechanism | |
| Lack of brake fluid in the system | Check the system for leaks, add fluid and remove air from the system | ||
| Air entering the hydraulic brake system | After pumping the system, remove the air | ||
Attention:a "soft" brake pedal usually means there is air in the system. Possible leaks in the connection points of tubes/hoses. First eliminate the cause of air ingress, then bleed the brake system. Fluid leakage indicates areas of damage. | |||
| Locking of brake mechanisms during braking | Sticking of friction linings due to dirt | Replace the friction linings or brake shoes | |
| Damaged or heavily worn brake drums | Check and replace drums if necessary | ||
| The brake shoe return springs are broken or stretched | Check and replace all springs, if necessary | ||
Attention:If the springs are stretched, also check the condition of the friction linings. Check the return springs by comparing their free length with the length of new springs. Vibration when braking the brake pedal indicates warped brake drums or discs | |||
| Brake pedal vibration | The geometry of the brake drums or discs is damaged (unacceptable beating) | Check and replace damaged drums or discs | |
| Front hub bearings are loose or worn out | Repair or replace front hub bearings | ||
| The rear axle shaft is bent | Check and replace all damaged parts | ||
Note: Unevenly worn brake drums or discs can be processed on a lathe or grinder.
| Ineffective braking | Incorrect brake pad adjustment | Check and adjust the rear brake mechanism |
| Brake pads or friction linings are impregnated with brake fluid or grease | Replace pads or friction linings | |
| Friction linings made of a different material are installed | Check and install the manufacturer's recommended friction linings | |
ATTENTION:Often, ineffective brakes are the result of driving through a water obstacle while fording. Stop and let the water drain, dry the brakes to restore their effectiveness with several hard braking applications. Be especially careful when doing this, because the car behaves worse when braking like this than on ice. | ||
| Overheating of brake mechanisms | The rear brake pads are not adjusted correctly | Check and adjust the rear brake mechanism |
| The brake shoe return spring has broken | Replace the spring(s) | |
| The handbrake cables are damaged or not adjusted | Check the cables, replace or adjust them | |
| The pistons of the working brake cylinders (calipers) are jammed | Check, repair or replace pistons | |
| The master cylinder compensation channel is clogged | Clean the compensation channel | |
| The hole in the master cylinder expansion tank cap is clogged | Check and clean the hole | |
| The main leaf or center bolt of the rear spring is broken | Check and replace damaged parts | |
| Too frequent and abrupt braking | Pay attention to your driving style | |
Attention:As a rule, damage can be easily detected by traces of brake fluid. | ||
| Brake failure (pedal "failed") | The brake master cylinder is damaged | Remove and overhaul the brake master cylinder |
| Loss of tightness of the working brake cylinder (caliper) cuff | Perform major repairs or replace the service brake cylinder (caliper), pump the system | |
| Destruction of a hose, tube or their connection | Replace faulty parts and bleed the system | |
| Air entering the system | Find and fix the problem. Pump up the system | |
| Presence of water in brake fluid | Replace the fluid and bleed the system | |
| Noise when braking | Squealing brakes when braking. Increased purity (absence of microroughness - like a polished surface) of the friction material surface | Remove, inspect the brake pads and sand the pad surface with coarse sandpaper |
| Grinding | The friction linings are completely worn out. Inspect brake pads, replace brake linings or pad assemblies, machine or replace brake drum or disc | |
Caution: Squealing brakes are sometimes caused by "burnt" friction material on the brake pads. Noisy brakes can also be caused by unsuitable friction material, missing adjusting washers or springs holding the pads.
If the brake pads or brake shoes are worn down to the base, it is recommended to replace the pads as a complete set (four pieces) and necessarily about 6 brake pads of one wheel. If the brake drum OR disc is scratched, they can be reamed or replaced, otherwise the braking efficiency will decrease (if the scratches are small in area, you don't have to do anything).