Special tools (specialized wrenches, pullers, measuring tools and other devices) are required when performing only some edge work, and therefore are used infrequently. You can purchase them as needed. At the same time, it is desirable to have a hydrometer, multimeter, caliper (in the middle, two can be useful not only for car repairs, but in everyday life). It should be borne in mind that it is difficult, and sometimes impossible, to perform a number of operations without a special tool.
Some types of work will be performed using personal protective equipment (see more details. «Safety measures for car maintenance and repair»). Therefore, along with a set of tools, prepare gloves or mittens, goggles or a mask (transparent face shield).
Universal Tool
1. A set of socket wrenches with interchangeable heads. The set must include a set of interchangeable heads with dimensions from 10 to 32 mm, for a connecting square 1/2" (0.5 inch). It is desirable that this set contains the entire range of working profiles of metric size, a special bale «candle» head 16 or 21 mm (deep head, inside which is inserted a rubber ring designed to hold the spark plug when it is removed). It is also desirable that there be a second set of heads with dimensions from 6 to 14 mm for a smaller landing size (1/4") and an additional set of deep sockets for 8, 10, 12 and 13 mm, for loosening nuts from long studs. It is very convenient to work if the set includes ratchet knobs (ratchet). They allow you to quickly unscrew and wrap fasteners.
Warning! To avoid damage to the ratchet, do not use ratchet to loosen and final tighten bolts and nuts.
Since the car uses TORX bolts, as well as bolts with an internal hexagon, the kit should have sets of appropriate heads and nozzles, as well as nozzles with a working profile for Phillips and slotted screwdrivers.
2. Collar with a hinge and a long handle. It is necessary for loosening threaded connections of large diameter, when it is necessary to exert considerable effort (e.g. when loosening the front wheel hub nut).
3. Combination wrench set (horn and cap) dimension from 6 to 32 mm. It is desirable that the entire range of metric wrenches be available (after 1 mm). Warning!
Open-end wrenches are not designed to apply significant forces to fasteners, since the edges of bolts and nuts are crushed. Tighten or loosen the tightening with such wrenches only if it is impossible to do this with socket or box wrenches.
4. A set of spanners. It is useful to supplement a set of combination wrenches with curved ring wrenches of the most popular sizes: 10, 12, 13, 15, 17, 19, 22 and 24 mm.
5. A set of hex keys from 2 to 12 mm.
6. Torque wrench. Designed for final tightening of threaded connections with a regulated moment.
7. A set of Phillips and slotted screwdrivers, varying in size and length. It is very convenient if, when performing repairs, there will be a large selection of screwdrivers with blades of various lengths and widths.
8. Hammers. It is advisable to have several hammers with a steel head weighing 200, 500, 1000 g, and, in addition, with a plastic or rubber head.
9. Wire cutters (side cutters), pliers, pliers with curved jaws.
10. Shilo.
11. Soft metal punches (brass, copper, aluminum bars) for knocking out axles, shafts.
12. A set of punches and barbs made of steel for knocking out pins, cotter pins, etc.
13. Chisel. It is better to purchase two or three chisels with different blade widths. It is desirable to have a long chisel for working in hard-to-reach places.
14. Hacksaw for metal, a set of needle files and files.
15. Mounting blade. You should have a set of two or three blades of different lengths that can be used as levers.
16. Sliding pliers.
17. Metal brushes.
18. Electric drill with a set of drills for metal (diameter up to 13 mm).
19. Locksmith vice. The vise must be securely fastened to the workbench.
Special tools and fixtures
1. Rolling hydraulic jack. A regular jack is often either inconvenient or simply useless when doing some work.
2. Stands for the car, adjustable in height and with a permissible load of at least 1 ton. It is desirable to have four such stands.
3. Wheel chocks (at least 2 pcs.).
4. Double-sided wrenches for 8 and 10 mm brake fittings. The two most common types of wrenches are the clamp wrench and the slotted box wrench. The clamping key allows you to unscrew fittings with worn edges. In order to put the wrench on the fitting of the brake pipe, it is necessary to unscrew the coupling bolt. A ring wrench with a slot allows you to work more quickly, however, such a wrench must be made of high-quality steel with appropriate heat treatment.
5. The key is special for adjusting the tension of the timing belt.
6. 24mm octagonal wrench for steering gear disassembly.
7. Flat collar with a ratchet mechanism for removable tips. Can be used in hard to reach places as a flat reversible screwdriver.
8. Pullers for removing retaining rings. There are two types of such pullers: for removing circlips from holes and for removing circlips from shafts, axles, rods. Such pullers come with straight and curved jaws.
9. Special pliers for installation of collars of protective covers of SHRUS.
10. A puller for pressing ball joint pins and tie rod ends.
11. Oil filter puller.
12. Universal three-jaw pullers for removing pulleys, hubs, gears.
13. Universal puller with narrow grips for removing couplings, gears, bearing rings. The design of the puller allows you to combine by installing two or three grips.
14. A set of tools for replacing wheel bearings. The kit includes a puller for removing the inner race of the bearing and a device for extracting and pressing in the hub bearings.
15. Universal cup puller for extracting and pressing in hub bearings and rubber-metal joints (silent blocks) leverage.
16. Puller and mandrel for replacing valve stem seals.
17. A set for compressing the springs and drying out the valves of the gas distribution mechanism.
18. Device for grinding valves.
19. Special box or socket wrench 22 mm for unscrewing the oxygen concentration sensor.
20. Tweezers.
21. Ties for suspension springs.
22. Impact screwdriver with a set of nozzles.
23. Digital multimeter (tester) for testing sensors and electrical circuits.
24. A special probe or test lamp for 12 V to check the electrical circuits of the car that are energized.
25. Tire pressure gauge (if there is no pressure gauge on the tire pump).
26. Pressure gauge for measuring pressure in the fuel rail of the engine.
27. Pressure gauge for checking the pressure in the engine lubrication system.
28. Compressometer for checking the pressure in the engine cylinders.
29. Nutromer for measuring the diameter of cylinders.
30. Caliper with depth gauge.
31. Micrometers with a measurement limit of 0-25, 25-50 and 50-75 mm.
32. A set of round probes for checking the gap between the spark plug electrodes.
33. A set of flat probes for measuring gaps when assessing the technical condition of the units.
34. Mandrel for centering the clutch disc.
35. Technological mandrel for fixing the side gear of the differential. The mandrel is installed in the hole of the gearbox after dismantling both drives, so that the side gears do not fall out of the differential.
36. Mandrel for crimping piston rings.
37. Hydrometer for measuring the density of a liquid (electrolyte in the battery or antifreeze in the expansion tank).
38. A special device with metal brushes for caring for wire terminals and battery terminals.
39. Magnet on a telescopic pointer for extracting small metal objects from hard-to-reach places.
40. Oil syringe for pouring oil into the gearbox housing.
Comment. Since the oil in the gearbox is rarely changed and it is poured from above through the level indicator hole, instead of an oil syringe, you can use a funnel with a 50-60 cm long plastic tube put on it.
41. Hose with a pear for pumping fuel. The hoses can be used to remove fuel from the tank before removing it.
42. Wide and narrow metalwork (metal) rulers for checking planes.
43. Device for dismantling the suspension struts. The device consists of two elements: the inner element is designed to hold the shock absorber rod (for 6 and 10 mm), and the outer one is for unscrewing its nut (for 17 and 22 mm).
44. Technical hair dryer (thermal gun). Necessary for heating parts during assembly and disassembly (e.g. heat shrink tubing for wiring repairs).
45. When performing work, you may also need: a clamp, a tape measure, a household steelyard, a wide container for draining oil and coolant with a volume of at least Yul, a medical syringe or a pear for sampling liquid.